choux buns
Choux pastry always freaked me out. I would see these big puffed choux buns, stuffed full of cream, and think it was a complex process. Little did I know, choux can actually be fairly simple once you know what you are looking for and begin to trust your instincts.
The recipe is a fairly simple ratio - 2:1:1:2
2 parts liquid, 1 part butter, 1 part flour, 2 parts egg. That’s where you start. I never tend to need all the egg, but I split out this much and ease it in until it’s the right consistency. A little tip: start with 4 eggs, give them a bit of a mix, then weigh them. This will be the foundation weight that you can then use multiples of for the rest of the ingredients. It’s much easier than trying to use a fraction of an egg to get the perfect weight.
When mixing the batter, add the eggs in gradually. You are looking for a consistency that is a smooth, shiny paste. The best test is to lift a wooden spoon out of the batter and watch as it falls off. You are looking for an easy drop that leaves a triangular V-shape hanging off the spoon. Keep adding egg until you get this. If it gets too loose, you’ll need to make more of your base dough (excluding egg) to thicken it.
With regard to the craquelin, this is absolutely a step you can skip. It creates that lovely cracked effect on top and adds a nice sweetness, but it is not compulsory.
Once your choux is cool, try to eat them as quickly as possible. They do go soft fairly fast. Pipe your favourite filling and enjoy them with abundance.
for the choux
200g liquid (50:50 water to milk)
100g butter
100g flour
200g egg
for the craquelin
50g butter
50g brown sugar
50g flour
method
make the craquelin
In a medium bowl, mix together the butter and brown sugar until they are smooth and creamy.
Add in the flour (and a pinch of salt), then thoroughly mix until there is no dry flour and it has formed into a crumb.
Use your hands to bring the dough together, then tip out onto a piece of parchment paper on your counter.
Shape the dough into a rough rectangle, place another sheet of parchment over the top, then roll out to about 2mm thick.
Put this in the freezer to chill whilst you make your choux.
make the choux
Preheat your oven to 200c.
In a saucepan over a high heat, add the milk/water and butter and heat to a rolling boil until the butter has fully melted.
Remove from the heat and add the flour. Mix this all together until all the flour is incorporated.
Return to a medium heat and continue to cook the mix until the internal temperature gets to 80c. You’ll also see that it starts to create a film on the bottom of the pan.
Let the dough cool to about 60c, beat the eggs together slightly, then add the eggs in gradually. You might not need to add them all.
When the dough resembles a smooth, shiny paste, and creates a triangular V-shape when dropping off a spoon, you know it’s done.
Get your craquelin out of the freezer and, using a dough cutter, cut into 2-inch-wide circles.
Line a baking sheet with baking paper, then scoop the batter into a piping bag. Pipe a series of 2-inch-wide choux, then place a circle of craquelin on top of each one.
Bake immediately at 200c for 20 minutes (rotating halfway if needed), trying to open the oven as little as possible and definitely not in the first 10 minutes.
Turn the heat down to 175c and bake for a further 15 minutes to let them dry out.
Take them out when they are puffed up, the crauelin is a deep brown, and the choux feel hollow when tapped.
Let them cool fully, then stab a little hole in the bottom to pipe in whatever filling you fancy. Mine are stuffed with a creme diplomat and my lemon curd.
Serve and eat immediately.
